Bridge over Bosphorus

With the word "Turk" Most of our fellow citizens have not yet long ago an image of such a person in Chalme and in Sharovar. He drinks in Turkish coffee, writes on the right to left Arabic, praying to Allah about his health of his harem and camels. The image of this is as colorful, as far from the truth. Chalma here came out of use even at the beginning of the XIX century and was replaced by Fesca, which, in turn, in the twenties, canceled the founder of the Turkish Republic Ataturk, the Arabic liner gave way to Latinite under him, and the polygamy – a long time ago criminal offense. Camel can be found no more often than a bear on Moscow Street. I testify it as a person who has worked in Turkey for more than a year.

However, as you know, the smoke without fire does not happen. I called these modest notes "Bridge over Bosphorus", Because it is this strait that shares the European and Asian parts in Turkey. And why the bridge, I hope, the reader guesses.

Resort in the vicinity of Istanbul. Sea, Heat, Wide Sandy Beach. The workers tired for the week are hard to fry in the sun, using their legal right to rest. Suddenly, unexpectedly, I notice that the heads of compatriots with whom I came to relax, as the team turn in one direction, and the faces are deformed in the grimace of surprise. Following the old instinct, I turn there, where and everything, and I see: a group of women is on the beach in the direction of water. Citizens are clearly sent to swim in outerwear. Dressed in long raincoats and traditional scarves, they quietly enter the water and begin to splashing, not paying attention to the surrounding. It should be said that such a bathing, and a suit, here – not exotic. True, and occurs not at every step.

If you quit a quick look at local laws, then for Turchans you can only rejoice. "Liberated women of the East" Generously give all imaginable democratic rights and freedoms. However, as it is often found in life, declared capabilities do not always coincide with real. Live here prefer "not by law, but by fairness", And the concepts of a fair distribution of rights and obligations for the last centuries have changed little. Indicatively the slogan under which the leaders of Islamic (even recently) opposition appeared. Attitude to the policy held by the Mrs. Tance Chiller was expressed by an incineral of the phrase: "Government – resigned, tance – in the kitchen!" And this look here in the place of a woman in public life is common not only among the Islamists.

For example, I somehow asked what my longtime familiar Ahmet Hall was thinking about this. I did not turn to him by chance, since he considered it a typical representative of the Turkish middle class. Ahmet comes from the breakfast village, but, thanks to the help of relatives, managed to get an education in the metropolitan university. In his youth, he sympathized with the Communists, walked under the Red Flag and fought for the welfare of all mankind. After the military coup in 1980, it was cooled and decided to restrict ourselves to the well-being of his own family, working on the Nive Trade. With Akhmet, we communicated on the affairs of our company often, and for some time he became my permanent consultant to which I also appeal to, faced with another Turkish paradox.

So, with regard to family relations, then Ahmet is not a Muslim fundamentalist! – Associated by the family’s subordination. Leaving the right from time to time to change his wife, he, however, was resolutely against the spouse following his example. Otherwise, the divorce, in his opinion, would be inevitable. To the honor of Ahmet, divorce in such cases is considered to be in Turkey the most soft form of solving family problems. Newspapers That and the point are tickling the nerves by readers details of the exploits of local Othello. If it does not reach deadlock, then the lady’s defendant, nevertheless, all surrounding from nowend begin to watch not otherwise, as a woman of easy behavior.

By the way, about light behavior. Prostitution in Turkey legalized. Public houses exist in all cities. The most popular among the population, of course, the Istanbul borough. Mrs. Matilda Manukyan owns the entire network of these institutions. Ranking (of course, unfriendly) that she is gaining exclusively Turkish in their institutions to humiliate the entire Turkish nation in their face, which brought against the Armenians a lot of grief. So it is or not, it is difficult to judge, but the other fact is known to be known from its biography. For no first year, Ms. Manukyan is leading in his country in the amount of taxes paid by the state, for which the regular awards are given in a solemn atmosphere.

It is worth adding that in Turkey it is customary to marry exclusively on virgins. Ahmet, having heard my question about this, told me that he personally could never marry a woman who previously belonged to someone else: "Sadd Hand" in this area unacceptable. " It was clear that it was axiom for Turk.

Somehow I read in one of the newspapers about the tragic case. It all started with a pretty everyday event: a young man kidnapped a girl. Here it is necessary to explain. The fact is that in Turkey for the wedding it is necessary for the consent of the parents. If, for one reason or another it is missing, young people who run out of the house, begin to live together, and parents put in front of the fact. Having an alternative: to recognize your daughter disgraced or give your consent to an unwanted marriage, parents tend to choose the last. This is called here "Kidnap a girl". Nothing unusual.

But this young man, kidding – with her consent – a girl, soon found out that this girl was not at all the girl. He could not overcome himself and threw her. To somehow escape from the shame, the federation used the last tool in her and submitted a statement to the Rape Police. (Strong, see, loved!) It could still be possible to lean if the young man agreed to marry, especially since parents have already given their consent. Of particular choice, they really were not. However, the young man remained adamant. In his last word in court, he, putting a missing male tear, admitted that she still loves her, but he could not marry anyway and agrees to honestly pull his term for rape.

What awaits to make a girl who fell into a similar situation? Her position is unlocked. However, if the sin of his youth is not yet faithful to publicity, it is possible to correct if you make an easy surgical operation that is called here "repair". Surgeons specializing in similar operations have sustainable income in Turkey. If you know how to keep your teeth.

Owners of his word

Long ago, working as a translator with tourists from Turkey, I was obsessed with the same thought: why they are always late? Assigning them to a meeting in the Hall of the hotel at ten in the morning, I regretted that the first, most conscious citizens appeared not earlier than half of the eleventh. As a result, we failed to get on time to any excursions. Then I suggested that the Turks behave in a similar way on vacation only. Later, hitting Turkey and having acquainted with the people closer, I realized that I was wrong. Holidays here.

Samples of this phenomenon met in Turkey literally at every step. For example, once again we got together to go on business in Istanbul. Our local familiar Mustafa, heading, as it turned out, on the same day on the same route, caused us to pass. He warned that he would go very early, and promised to go after us. Fascinated by such attention and care, we rose neither. After about an hour and a half, when further expectation lost all the meaning and it became clear that the trip is hopelessly torn, we again fell to sleep, remembering what the light costs its credulity and mustaf.

From that day I went around the house Mustafa for a kilometer until he accidentally encountered him on the street. Mustafa was sincerely surprised by my disappearance. I, trying to restrain, intelligibly explained to him the reason that he smiled benevolently and stated that, unfortunately, in the morning I was very in a hurry and simply forgot to grab us with me. It was seen that he sincerely does not understand the reasons for my displeasure. I did not understand his misunderstanding. As always, everything put in place Ahmet. He listened to my penetrating speech, grinned and wrained the phrase worthy to be quoted:

What is surprised? We are the owners of your word: We want – we give, we want – take back.

Alas, but this rule is widespread in Turkey, ranging from everyday communication and ending with a television program for a week. I am accustomed to trusting information published in the newspaper, the first time in Turkey was not easy to get used to the thought that if a program was announced in the program, this does not mean anything. Moreover, nothing means even if this film is constantly advertised for a week on the same TV channel. For example, film "Amadeus" I tried to look three times, but all attempts ended in failure. Surfing more comfortably at the TV screen, I, instead of the declared picture, found something, even remotely not reminding it. At the same time, no one came to mind to report changes in advance or at least apologize for the deed. Gradually, I used to and began to treat such things philosophically.

Also philosophically, I began to treat the Turkish manner to ride.

On the company my chief taught me the Turkish life. Once, on the way to Istanbul, he pointed me on "Mercedes" a popular model, peacefully and powerively driving ahead of us, and suggested watching what happens now. I added gas, and our visited views "nine" came forward, leaving behind the pride of German automotive industry. The result did not slow down to affect. The Turkish motorist insulted to the depths of the soul instantly forgot about the fact that he has no hope to hurry. He is on the accelerator, and a chic car, rushing from all his horsepower, in the blink of an eye disappeared beyond the horizon.

So I first witnessed the symptoms of the chicastics of local drivers. It is worth the Turku to go to the roadway on its vehicle, as the instinct of jigita-nomads wakes up, who does not stop even the best quality of local roads.

Amazingly, but the above-mentioned features of the national character calmly get along with high quality work: Turkish goods – in any case, many – indeed at the world level. (Another thing is that our "Chelovela", Yes, and many firms are trying to buy that cheaper, and for small money and the quality is low.) The country is famous for its builders, and they are built canceled and in Turkey, and abroad. And the driver, briefing concrete, not only does not exceed the set speed, but never late.

Yeah, if we talk about the good properties of the Turks, the local entrepreneur leads a business, no distinguished from the European or American, except that will never forget to offer to a coffee or tea to visitors.

But working in Turkey, you have time to get used to it, but everything is different from European countries (from other European countries, as they would not be able to emphasize the Turks) is striking and remembered for a long time.

For example, in Europe, and even more so in America, to be non-smokey becomes a done of valor, heroism and glory.

Once, browsing at leisure "Komsomolskaya truth", I came across a funny article in which there was a point that the show was sitting in Istanbul: the our girls are sitting in chairs and smoke a cigarette for a cigarette, and the rich Turks who are not accustomed to the species of smoking women come to look at this miracle of nature.

I laughed long. In order not to notice smoking women in Turkey, you need to walk with closed eyes, trying to try especially not to sniff.

As it is neither regrettable, but the harmful habit in the absence of any restrictions (smoking here is almost everywhere, including long-distance buses) rose to the scale of national disaster, and the non-smoking person lives difficult in Turkey.

How to explain it is a mustache tobacco? My friend Ahmet believed that Turkish women smoking emphasize their emancipation, and men will sneak, like steam locomotives, fleeing from stress. Maybe it really is so.

The state is trying to somehow affect the situation. On television is prohibited advertising cigarettes. I heard, even preparing a bill on banning smoking in public places, but weakly believe that such a document can be released in the country. It would be unnatural.

As for our girls who swallowed in front of the wealthy Turks, I am sure that those and others gathered there quite differently, which is not difficult to guess and which is not smoking no. Just forgot about him to tell a clear soul to the correspondent "Komsomologians".

If someone is somewhere.

I remember how I first came to Turkey a few years ago, two things immediately rushed into my eyes: the abundance of barbed wire on fences and policemen with guns at every intersection. Initially, the feeling that I got into a sort of police state. Lived there, I can say that it is not. But the order in the country is supported. I do not want to say that there is no crime in Turkey at all. She, of course, is, and the local community, of course, expresses its concern. However, as the poet Vladimir Vishnevsky says, then she and the public to express their concern.

Judge for yourself. Racket in our understanding among the Turks themselves. Individual weather extortion cases do not. Women are walking down the streets frightened by gold as New Year’s trees. Men also avoid decorations. Shoes are left here in the entrance before entering the apartment or on the street, at the entrance to the mosque. Here you do not remove the wipers from cars and easily can leave the keys to the apartment on the gas station so that its employees flooded the fuel oil for the carrier in the absence of the owner. Sometimes foreigners are amazed here by manifestations of honesty, not characteristic of more (or less) developed countries.

A familiar businessman somehow invited us to walk along the shore of the Bosphorus. We took something to have a snack in an open restaurant and sat on a shop at the water itself. For ten minutes, the owner of the institution approached us and handed 50 thousand lire, at the time – about seven dollars. It turned out that our businessman paying off, gave an excess. Finding it, the owner became looking for us, found in the mass of the people and returned money before the client himself managed to remember. However, they say, earlier there were morals even easier. Looking on the street any thing, you could come the next day in this place and probably found a loss in one of the surrounding benches.

Police in Turkey are always alert and copes well with their duties, although it would be worth noting one important moment, which is largely determining the success of its work. I mean disinterested persons. Most serious crimes are revealed here thanks to the signals received from people. Vigilant Turkish citizens are not shy to inform the police about all suspicious, which noticed, and it makes it possible to reveal, and most importantly, prevent a lot of crimes.

There are, of course, and overhears. In local television humorous transmission showed a funny plot on this topic. A young man meets a girl, her behavior seems suspicious to him, and he, just in case, decides to convey to the police. He goes to the nearest telephone booth, where there is no turn. Who notifies about the unreliability of his wife, who knocks on the mother-in-law, and someone even admits in their not quite the right thoughts. In the end, a young man does not have time to talk to the police. It is arrested because the girl has time to be touched upon him before. Laughter laugh, but seriously, then the help of the population is a great strength, to neglect which is simply unreasonable.

There is another factor.

Once my countryman and employee got into Turkey in an extremely unpleasant situation. His apartment robbed, took a salary for several months. Hopes for the return of money practically was not. The last blow to optimism was our personal presence when working as a local expert-criminalist who used the methods over which Star Holmes laughed. However, despite disappointing forecasts, the criminal was detained, and most of the money returned.

Later, kneading this event in a restaurant with the top of local law enforcement agencies, we asked how they still managed to find a criminal. Answer us a lot surprised.

Bridge over Bosphorus

We threw all the strength on this, – Local Zheglov said modestly. – After all, if we did not find it, you would have foreigners, there would be an opinion that in Turkey some bandits, and the police do nothing.

Like that, no more and no less. Patriotic considerations above all. In general, patriotism in Turkish character is closely combined with such a long tradition, as respect for the elder. Under seniority are usually understood as age and the title. Compliance with subordination, often causes blue. Fear over the authorities permeates every Turkish official. I remember how one day I was amazed by reading the fax directed by the middle service manager to the owner of the company. He began with the words: "About great and worthy of respect!" The rules of subordination in Turkey do not change from the bottom to the top of the domineering pyramid. For example, in the city of Sparka, where the current president of the country, Suleiman Demirel, was born, who is in the people affectionately "father", there is a boulevard wearing his name.

Special attitude in Turkey to the founder of the republic and the first president of the country Mustafa Kumalia Ataturk. He is honored as we have read Lenin in former times. All the corresponding rituals are so similar that it makes no sense to list them. The only difference is that during all the peripetias of the newest Turkish history, the authority of Ataturk remained unshakable. Once I asked Ahmet, as he belongs to Ataturk.

I respect him, – followed the answer. – Mustafa Kemal was a man! Drank for three, and how was the woman!

Another side of the Turkish propaganda is expressed in slogans, wipe literally at every step. To the calls to take care of a mother-in-law or public domain we do not get used to us, but here Turkey is sometimes just amazing samples of written-written creativity.

Once, waiting for the bus at the bus stop and thinking about where to find the toilet nearby, I got a little mosque to them. Sergeant Ahmet Kakhvedoeoglu, Obviously, the hero of the local value, who was stunned nearby. I went closer to evaluate the operational atmosphere. What was my surprise when, on the wall of the temple, I narrowled a metal plate, which had literally alleviated: "Jamiya Weshen – Dintsidir!" – "Pissing on a mosque – a loaf!"

I was even nice to regretted that I did not have a camera with me.

But under the name plate was drawn by an arrow showing the place you need.

Once, being in the provincial city of Luleurburg, I went out at six o’clock in the evening shopping. The weather was excellent, it was still far from the evening, and, in all signs, I was expected a productive walk. However, to his vast surprise, I discovered most shops already closed, and the rest hastily closing. I did not immediately understand what caused so illogical behavior of merchants, which differ in enviable labor enthusiasm here, but soon everything turned out. The elderly gentleman who came across toward me, explained that the cause lies in the holy of the Holy Saints – the International Football Match.

I wanted to ask something else, but the gentleman was very in a hurry and offered me to go with him and see everything myself. We entered the spacious coffee shop just in time. The match has just started. The room was clogged by a bit. In Turkey, it is not customary to watch football home alone. Crying children and rumble in the kitchen do not help proper perception of what is happening. Therefore, the Turks prefer to watch football in stadiums, either in coffee shops and beer, where the cup of tea or beer in a good company can fully enjoy the favorite spectacle.

Later, I realized that the love of the Turks to football is truly nsondo. I tried to find in Turkey at least one person indifferent to this sport, but it was not possible to do it. Football here love everything. Any conversation with Turk, regardless of the initial theme, slowly, but right goes to football. There are not a single match and know the name of all players, including those who have left a big sport. It seems that this universal love combines and splits the nation is stronger than calls for patriotism. The defeat in the international match here is comparable to National Mourning. Well, what is happening in case of victory – it is not difficult to guess.

By the way, mentioned above the match ended not by the victory, not the draw, nevertheless, the desired point, necessary to exit the next round of the championship. The joy of fans was not borders. Friendly crowds of people fell out of close coffee. They went through the streets, beat in the drums and sow slightly coming victory songs. All cars walked around the city with sound signals. It lasted more than half an hour. The first and last time I became in Turkey a witness to a truly nationwide holiday.

Cultural life in Turkey has a key, but the natural sentimentality of the Turk determines the general direction of creativity – melodramas. All Turkish cinema, with the exception of several military-patriotic tapes, consists of an endless turn of tearful films. Not inferior to him and pop, represented exclusively by songs about unhappy love. (True, most nations of love songs are usually sad. But the Turks have not just sad – they cause tears!) Cause of this phenomenon is mysterious. Familiar Translator-Turchanka, the lady progressively tuned, once expressed the opinion that the government is not interested in the people especially having fun. I do not know whether it corresponds to reality, however, anyway, but no complaints about singers. People know better what he needs.

Turkish newspapers are also not standing away from the satisfaction of the pressing needs of the population. Here, the melodrama acquires the shape of secular gossip, which is devoted to the first, color pages of almost all Turkish publications. In general, gossip playing a huge role in Turkey. The people here are extremely vividly interested in intimate details from the life of the strengths of this world.

The case is remembered when I specified an article on the first page of one of the leading newspapers that the famous footballer appeared in a nightclub with a new mistress. I grinned and postponed the newspaper to the side to view other publications. What was my surprise when almost in all other newspapers I discovered notes on the same burning topic. In another country, no one would pay attention to this minor episode of the personal life of an athlete. But not in Turkey. By the way, this case did not end. In the evening, in the program of the secular chronicle, journalists have already taken an interview with a couple of couple, wondering if they have long been together and how serious they have it.

Costable local service

An integral traction of the national character of the Turks – a tendency to trade. Work with the buyer know how.

Entering the shop, you will immediately feel attention. Domestic indifference, not even defeated by the transition to the market, here you will not meet. The seller will ask what you would like to buy, and will select the right product. There is an interesting detail. The Turkish seller will never tell you that it does not have goods. Even if there is no need, he will assure that she, of course, was, but he ended only, and will advise to go tomorrow or ask for a little wait, and the boy himself will send a boy to a neighbor shop where such goods are accurate.

By the way, while you are waiting for, the Seller will definitely head up with you sincere conversation, share its secret desire to go to Russia and will certainly treat you tea or any other soft drink for your choice. At the same time, you, of course, understand that you are not treated not from natural generosity, but based on your future purchase, however, it’s still very nice. Especially in the heat. Having got drunk tea and widowed, you will feel that after all this leave the store without buying, even somehow uncomfortable. What, in fact, was required to prove.

However, Turkish trade with its combination of Western pragmatism and oriental tricks is just a particular case. The whole life of Turkey shows that this country left the traditional East, but until I got to the West. So to speak, not quite reached the western end of the bridge over the Bosphorus. This is her feature, and it is these Turks like us.

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